Everything you need to know about microneedling p1

Why you may want to explore puncturing your face with tiny little needles... and what's the proof it even works?

Here I sit, hunched over my computer like a cocktail shrimp, about to tell you how to puncture your face with tiny needles in the name of “beauty.” Microneedling offers a myriad of benefits: it plumps the skin by triggering a collagen response, smooths the surface, refines pores, and, yes, it can help with acne scarring.

A disclaimer; beauty standards are strange. I make a living off of telling you how to manipulate your skin. This in turn can shift how you feel about yourself, or how others perceive you. A reminder, we are but mere flesh sacks. Humans, and how we treat each other based on how we present is something always worth dissecting. As someone who is interested in aging while also boosting collagen within my corporal shell, microneedling is something that does have a fair amount of data with lower risk.

Why? Downtime is minimal, I know what to expect, and while I am looking older (a goal of mine), some of the things I don’t love about aging are being slowed.

So, let’s get into it.

What is microneedling?

It all starts with injury. A small cut that kicks your body into action. Platelets flood the wound to create a clot so you don’t bleed out. Then, inflammation. As the healing process progresses, so does the role of the most abundant protein in your body; collagen.

One of collagen’s key roles is to provide structure and support for body tissues, keeping skin elastic. Skin rich in collagen tends to have fewer wrinkles and heals more quickly. Microneedling, through fine needles typically 0.5–3 mm in length and 0.1–0.25 mm in diameter, helps stimulate this wound-healing response. Having done microneedling a few times a year since I turned 35 (I’m now 37), I’ve found the pain minimal and the downtime manageable, provided I avoid alcohol and stay hydrated the week prior.

Who discovered microneedling?

Plastic surgeons. While in the 50s the concept of microneedles for enhanced drug delivery was posited, the first recorded use of the microneedling was for scarring with “dermal needles.” Dr. David S. Orentreich concluded it was promising for a “variety of cutaneous depressions” including wrinkles.

Then came the Quebecois duo with a tattoo gun. Taking the ink out, André Camirand MD and Jocelyne Doucet RN used the tattoo gun needle to improve “improve achromic, hypertrophic, and unsightly scars.”

What it does, overall:

From the FDA:

Legally Marketed Uses of Microneedling Devices

The FDA has legally authorized microneedling devices to improve the appearance of facial acne scars, facial wrinkles, and abdominal scars in patients aged 22 years or older. This means the FDA has reviewed data to support a reasonable assurance of the safety and effectiveness of these devices for these uses.

While everyone’s reaction to microneedling will differ (for example, if you're older, wound healing might be slower than for someone in their 30s), here are the claims with the most supporting evidence:

• Some forms of acne scars: yes, this is something you can expect. Certain devices are FDA-cleared for this purpose.

• Wrinkles and fine lines: again, this is something you can expect and is cleared by the FDA. It will not erase wrinkles, and if your wrinkles deeper and dynamic (from expression)—nothing is as effective as say Botox. As someone who hasn’t yet tried Botox, you also can just learn to like or be neutral about wrinkles. I’m on the neutral end of the spectrum.

• Stretch marks: as they’re a type of scar, can be helpful.

• Uneven skin tone: The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) claims microneedling can help with this, but some dermatologists on TikTok disagree. If an even skin tone is your goal, consult a dermatologist who specializes in discoloration.

• Large pores: because of that collagen production, yes. This is something I personally experience with microneedling.

• Melasma: one report shows great results of microneedling and, following a 24 hour period, use of a “depigmentation serum” (0.05% tretinoin + 4% hydroquinone + 1% fluocinolone acetonide) along with sunscreen. The images are impressive (below).

• Burns: one report shows a reduction in burn scars with microneedling paired with a corticosteroid cream.

If you haven’t noticed by now, many of these studies are pairing microneedling with topical drugs, and this is because creating a million tiny cuts all over your face helps with product penetration. Your skin is a barrier, it keeps things out. Puncturing your skin helps ingredients, like a retinoid, get in.

Or, in my case, my own blood.

Next post will go into the main options for microneedling including…

• At home microneedling including stamps and rollers (and controversy from 2020 that everyone’s walking back now).

• Just the needles aka just using microneedling with no serums, creams or blood. The FDA has approved of certain devices like SkinPen and SkinStylus.

• PRP & PRFM aka drawing your own blood, extracting the platelets and then microneedling that in (remember, platelets are critical to wound healing and collagen formation).

• Radiofrequency Microneedling, basically needles + radiofrequency. Going to PSA here that microneedling has very little risk until you get into the radiofrequency category. I’ll go into more detail.

Will also cover new trends like liquid microneedling and the potential for exosomes (if they aren’t banned) replacing PRP and PRFM. Ask any questions below that you want me to address. Disclaimer: can list out New York prices but y’all, this is a place where your zip code is dictating price.